Belgrade was our third city in a row and it was taking its toll – we needed some nature. Flying into Tivat airport we knew Montenegro was going to provide us with just that:
Tivat airport is a very small airport which sits on the Bay of Kotor, a series of sea-lakes that pulsate out into the Adriatic sea on the coast of Montenegro.
Kotor Town where we stayed that night was a charming medieval town on the bay and clearly a big pull for the area – luckily for us arriving at night meant it was not so touristy and we could take in the town in a night and morning, happy in the knowledge that we will find our place of solitude and calm for a few nights afterwards.
We found our sanctuary in Risan, in an annexed part of a house belonging to Jadranka and Vlado – It was blissful, so we spent four nights here doing very little but lolling about enjoying the peace and beauty of this spot. Situated on the quieter side of Kotor Bay, we had our own dock to jump into the salty lakes which confusingly had a layer of cold fresh water on the top, water straight off the mountains – it was a perfect combination of sea water with a crisp layer of fresh you had to break through first.
We were there over Montenegro’s Independence Day – 21st May – which was their freedom from Serbia in 2006, a historic relationship from before the formation of Yugoslavia that persisted after the break up of Yugoslavia. We heard the celebrations from across the lake, but thought it was best to let them get on with it, but delighted in their zeal and pride for their country; rightly so.
Pippa devoured Priscilla Morris’ first novel – “Black Butterflies” – whilst lolling and was enthralled. Set during the siege of Sarajevo and published just a couple of weeks earlier, it felt like an apt book to digest ahead of our trips further into the Balkans, and namely Bosnia. We had got a sense from Belgrade of the emotions and energies still pertinent since the conflict but more time in the Balkans would unveil more. Black Butterflies painted a vivid and deeply moving image of the effects war has on the individual, while sensitively portraying key events that happened during the siege. The book was an intimate introduction to our learning of the history of the Bosnian war.
Vlado, one of the hosts, was from Sarajevo but fled to Montenegro when the war started, hearing about Ana’s family’s history and seeing Priscilla’s book made him very emotional when we parted.
Feeling like we should see a bit more of the area, on our last full day we really excelled ourselves and went to the highest point of Montenegro. We were almost too late, but the extreme kindness and proudness of the guard meant they allowed us to whizz round and also get some extra background info too.
Winding back down the mountain we had a chance to really soak in the unique landscape of Kotor Bay while the sunset – a perfect last day taking in Kotor Bay. Montenegro, we will be back very soon, definitely not finished with you yet….
